On Saturday I tried something new - linoleum cut printing. I was so nice to be student and have a whole kit and lesson planned for you! The workshop was held at Abode Studios and taught by Sarah. Check out Abode's calendar for more upcoming events!
All the supplies were provided and a sample image was given, though you could bring in or draw your own image. I had a rough idea of my plan and then set to executing it. Once our blocks were craved, we learned how to print onto paper.
At home, I knew this had to go onto fabric. I love my print and will hang it on the wall, but we all know my love of fabric runs deeper. Just think of the possibilities - printing my own images on fabrics!
There are special fabric block printing inks, but that involves waiting for it to arrive from online. So I dug out my acrylic paints and tried those. While I cannot get a full coverage image without the paint running into crack, it wasn't a complete failure. I now have my own lino print zippered pouch!
The fabric used is 6 oz Ron-Loc canvas in natural. It was prewashed before use (I've found the natural fabrics often have lots of residue left on them). This is lighter than the normal duck canvas I use, but I didn't want that level of stiffness for this pouch.
As a side note - the proper block printing fabric ink arrives tomorrow...
Supplies used:
- Speedball speedy carve
- block carving tool set
- Speedball brayer
- Cranfield Caligo Safe Wash Relief Ink in black (what we used in class)
- Speedball block printing fabric ink (on order to try)
- acrylic paint (the cheap stuff from the craft store or Wal-Mart, as that's what we had at home)
There is also a Speedball block printing starter kit available. I haven't bought it, but it may be worthwhile if you want to give block printing a try!
And, as always, check out my Instagram for more pictures and faster updates on what I'm up to!
After getting some acrylic paint questions, I wanted to share what I've learned. Regular, cheap acrylic paint seems to do well for me on fabric (I've done cotton t shirts and cotton canvas) IF diluted with water. If you don't dilute it, it goes on very thick and will likely crack when the material is bent. I add a little water at a time and test until the desired level is reached. I want it go on easily with a paint brush in one layer. Too much water and the paint will run on fabric. Test on scraps first. Because you're diluting the paint, it's hard to make it as dark and vivid as it would be on paper. For example black usually ends up a dark grey after repeated washing. (Note - I did not dilute the paint for block printing though. I wanted it thicker here to try to get fully coverage of the image.)
They sell a fabric additive for acrylic paint but I've never bought it. My painted t shirt has held up fine with washing and drying without it.
To get fine lines, I use a fine tip applicator bottle. It is imperative you dilute the paint with water until you get a good flow (test on a scrap). The paint cannot have glitter or any lumps as it will clog the bottle. Replace the pin when not in use and promptly clean out the bottle when done. I've left paint for a few days in it, but not much longer. When cleaning, unscrew all the parts and thoroughly clean.
When you fabric is dry, cover with a pressing cloth and iron to heat set the paint. I have had some transfer when ironing so ensure you use a pressing cloth (I use an old flour sack towel). If the fabric is not fully dry, expect more transfer to occur.
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All opinions are my own. I have used or purchased all the items listed unless otherwise noted.
